4 day autumn crossing hike of the Low Tatras mountain range

Long trail crossing of the Low Tatras from Telgárt to Donovaly

Starting point

From Prague, I take a night sleeper train to Poprad and from there I travel by bus (45 minutes) to the village of Telgárt, which is the starting point of the route from east to west. Those who want to complete the crossing in the opposite direction can start in the village of Donovaly, which is accessible by bus from Ružomberok.
 

Description of the hike

1. day

Upon arriving in Telgárt, I buy something small for breakfast and water for the journey at the local COOP store. In front of the store, I meet a Slovak named Rosťa, who is also heading to the mountains and with whom I will later spend two days hiking. Around half past eight, I set off in sunny weather and face a relatively steep climb to the ridge. A short distance beyond the village, I enter the forest, and the landscape and weather change during the ascent.

First, I climb in the shade of spruce trees and along a fairly overgrown trail, and then I pass through a blooming forest meadow, where I come across my first source of drinking water, the Zubrovice spring. Finally, I reach the plateau, from which I climb to the first significant peak, Kráľova hoľa, 1,948 meters above sea level, which is the highest point in the entire eastern part of the Low Tatras and the source of several important Slovak rivers. Its dominant feature is a television transmitter, and it is even accessible by an asphalt road, so a group of electric bike riders reaches the summit at the same time as me.

From Kráľova hoľa, I continue along the ridge, alternating between grass and boulders, over the other bare peaks of Stredná hoľa (1,976 m), Orlová (1,840 m), and Bartková (1,790 m). During this time, I enjoy beautiful views on both sides of the valley - the opposite hills of the Muránska planina plateau (to the south) and the outlines of the Western and High Tatras (to the north). From the Bartko family memorial, the trail begins to descend steeply into the forest again to the Ždiarské sedlo saddle at 1,473 m above sea level and to the Andrejcová peak at 1,520 m above sea level.

After 16 kilometers from the start, I finally arrive at the Andrejcová chalet, where I rest for an hour, refresh myself with draft beer and soup, and even recharge my cell phone. During the remaining 7 kilometers of today's journey, I still have to climb Heľpianský vrch (1,596 m above sea level) and Veľká Vápenica (1,692 m above sea level), which are separated by the Priehybka saddle. On the way, I refresh myself with raspberries and blueberries, but at the same time, I have to constantly watch my step and watch out for vipers, which often bask on the rocks right on the trail.

After a long descent towards the Priehyba saddle, I finally arrive at the cottage (400 m off the trail), where I meet Rosťo, and we both lay our heads down to rest. The hut has been locked for a long time, but the covered porch with a picnic table is sufficient for sleeping in a sleeping bag. However, I change my mind during the night, as I am awakened several times by the roar of a bear from the adjacent forest. Fortunately, that's all there is to it.

2. day

Due to the previous night's experience, we quickly pack up in the morning and decide to have breakfast under a shelter in the Priehyba saddle a few hundred meters further on. Here we meet an adventurous Dutch-Swiss couple with a dog who have been camping here, and during our conversation I learn that they are on a long journey by bike from Finland to Greece. A nearby "waterfall" is perfect for washing the dishes after breakfast and refilling our water bottles for the journey. The next spring is 13 kilometers away, just before Ramža.

From the Priehyba saddle, we have to climb up a forest path to Kolesárová (1,508 m), where we can refresh ourselves with lots of raspberries. The trail continues through wild countryside, alternating between forest and meadow, via Oravcová (1544 m) to the summit of Zadná hoľa (1620 m), which rises above the tree line and offers the first truly panoramic view. From here, we descend the slope again to the Ramža chalet, where we can rest for a while and have something to eat.

Zde se setkáváme s jedním místním horalem, který se rozhodl zde přespat, avšak na samotné stezce po celý den nepotkáme jedinou živou duši (naštěstí ani tu medvědí), což jen dokresluje celkovou divokost této etapy. Z Ramžy nám nakonec zbývá dojít asi 7 kilometrů s jedním nenáročným stoupáním na Jánov grúň (1387 m) a závěrečným klesáním až do průsmyku Čertovica.

Dvoukilometrové klesání začíná v Sedle za Lenivou, kde lze nouzově přenocovat v nové malé útulně Terezka, ovšem my jsme již měli předem domluvené přespání přímo v Čertovici u jednoho staršího pána v jeho chatě. Teplá sprcha a postel nám přichází vhod, stejně jako teplá večeře a točené pivo v místním motorestu. Čertovica (1232 m) je jediné sedlo v Nízkých Tatrách, kterým prochází silnice I. třídy, a spojuje Liptov s Horehroním.
 

3. day

Today, we face the longest and most demanding stage with the planned destination at the Ďurková mountain hut. At the beginning, we must climb from the saddle up to the ridge again and during the first 2 km, we will climb 350 metres from the forest to the peaks of Rovienka and Lajštroch (both 1,602 metres). We leave the fog after the night rain behind us in the valley, and the sun is already smiling at us on the ridge with dense dwarf pine vegetation.

In addition to the sun, we are also warmed by the amazing views of the inversion below us and the peaks of the Královohoľské Tatras rising from it. From Kumštové sedlo, we continue climbing the grassy hills to the foot of Králička and, eight kilometres from the start, we finally arrive at Ďumbierské sedlo (1,728 m) at the General M. R. Štefánik Chalet. We haven't met anyone on the way since morning, except for three blueberry pickers at the end of the hillside. Štefánikova chata is the longest-operating high-altitude chalet in the Low Tatras, and of course we stop here to replenish our drinking water supplies and buy something to eat.

Here we meet the first day hikers who are passing through on their way to Ďumbier and Chopok. And that's where we continue too. The trail to the highest mountain in the Low Tatras traverses its southern slope and leads mainly over large boulders, so you have to constantly watch your step. After two kilometers, we reach Krúpovo sedlo (Krúpovo Pass) and the turnoff to Ďumbier. We leave our heavy backpacks here and walk the last kilometer to the summit light.

However, clouds are already gathering in the saddle, so this short, undemanding ascent is motivated only by the desire to conquer the highest point of the Low Tatras at 2,045 m above sea level, and not by the views from the summit. From Ďumbier, we continue another 4 kilometers across the Demänovské sedlo saddle (1,763 m above sea level) to Chopok. It is easily accessible from both sides of the valley by cable cars, so we encounter an unusually large number of tourists here. We also take a short refreshment break at Kamenná chata pod Chopkom and then set off on the last leg of today's journey.

Despite the gloomy forecast, it hasn't rained since morning, so we can walk the last 11 km, mostly along the ridge, to the Ďurková shelter. After reaching the summit of Dereše at 2,004 m above sea level, we leave the 2,000 m altitude behind us for good, but in sunny weather we are treated to amazing views of the deep glacial valleys on both sides. On the northern side, below the peaks of the High Tatras, you cannot miss the largest water reservoir in Slovakia, Liptovská Mara, with the adjacent town of Liptovský Mikuláš, which is the center of the historic region of Liptov.

We gradually cross the sharp ridge with steep slopes over the peaks of Poľana (1,890 m) and Kotliská (1,937 m) to the sprawling Chabenec (1,955 m). Behind it, we descend steeply to our destination, a mountain hut at an altitude of 1620 m. The Ďurková pod Chabencom mountain hut is open all year round, has its own caretakers, and offers accommodation on bunk beds in your own sleeping bag, a source of drinking water, and hot snacks.
 

4. day

In the morning, I enjoy breakfast on the porch of the cottage overlooking the valley, while the sun slowly rises above the hills opposite. Today, I am traveling alone again, but I meet the largest number of tourists on the entire route so far (not counting the overcrowded Chopok). Right from the cottage, I have a short hike to the top of Ďurková, 1,750 meters above sea level, where I stay for a while.

The views of the Liptov valley, completely shrouded in white clouds, from which the peaks of the local mountains rise like islands, completely absorb me and charge me with energy for the next few kilometers. This amazing view accompanies me for about two hours on my way over the peaks of Zámostská hoľa (1,612 m above sea level) and Latiborská hoľa (1,648 m above sea level) before the trail begins to turn southwest. However, it still leads along a bare ridge oscillating at an altitude of 1,500 to 1,750 m above sea level, through other saddles and peaks such as Košarisko (1,693 m), Velká Chochuľa (1,753 m) and Prašivá (1,675 m).

The views of the surrounding area are still amazing, but the lack of shade has resulted in my neck and face getting sunburned. Just beyond Prašivá, the ridge trail descends steeply through rocky terrain for more than 500 meters to the Hiadeľské sedlo saddle at 1,100 meters above sea level. Here there is a beautiful wooden shelter for about 15 people. I don't meet anyone here, but after 18 km, I can finally rest, refill my water from the spring, and eat from my dwindling supplies.

From the saddle, I continue westward, facing a short but relatively steep climb through a maple forest to Kozí chrbát (Goat's Back) at 1,330 meters above sea level. This marks my official departure from the Low Tatras and my arrival at the highest peak of the Starohorské vrchy (Old Mountain Range). During the subsequent descent to the saddle, another beautiful view of the landscape in front of me opens up, as well as the first houses of Donovaly. I continue across a grassy plain to the last peak of the day, Kečka (1,225 m above sea level), and a short distance beyond it, I arrive at the saddle and the shelter of the same name, where I intend to lay my head.
 

5. day

I set off at 7 a.m. to cover the remaining 5 kilometres as quickly as possible. After a short climb from the saddle, I finally leave the Low Tatras National Park and gradually descend along a rocky forest path to the village of Polianka. Here I reach an asphalt road and shortly afterwards the centre of Donovaly, where I board a bus to Ružomberok.
 

Difficulty

The entire nearly 100-kilometre crossing, which is part of the red long-distance trail Cesta hrdinů SNP (Path of SNP Heroes), includes a total ascent (and descent) of 5,000 metres.

Due to some steep passages, I highly recommend trekking poles (especially in wet conditions), but it is possible to complete the trail without any safety equipment. The trail leads mainly along forest paths, and at higher altitudes around Ďumbier and Chopok, it leads over rocks.
 

Water availability

There are quite a few water sources (springs) along the way, so I only needed to carry a maximum of 1.5 litres of water, which I replenished as I went along. Sources of natural drinking water can also be found at all the shelters where you can spend the night.
 

Sleeping options

Day 1

Overnight stay in the Priehyba saddle on the porch of a locked log cabin, alternatively you can sleep under a nearby tourist shelter or in a tent, drinking water source.

Day 2

Overnight stay in the Čertovica saddle in private accommodation (€15), alternatively you can sleep in the local mountain rescue hut (€20), where camping is also permitted, or in the Terezka shelter a few kilometers before the saddle.

Day 3

Overnight stay in the Ďurková pod Chabencem mountain hut (€10), camping is possible next to it (€2), it has a caretaker, a source of drinking water, and hot snacks.

Day 4

Overnight stay in the shelter below Kečka - free of charge, camping is not allowed here, the drinking water source was dry at the time of our visit, there is a caretaker, refreshments can be purchased

Alternatively, you can also stay overnight at the Andrejcová mountain hut (inside €10, tent free of charge, caretaker, drinking water, USB charging), at the Ramža mountain hut (free of charge, no caretaker, drinking water spring), at the Gen. M. R. Štefánik's cottage in Ďumbier saddle (dormitory €35, restaurant), at Kamenná chata pod Chopkom (dormitory €40, restaurant, camping is not possible at either cottage), or at the shelter in Hiadeľské sedlo (free, no caretaker, drinking water source).
 

Mountain peaks

Each stage of this long-distance trek leads along the ridge of the Low Tatras and across several of its significant peaks, offering amazing views in both directions of the valley (to the Horehronie region in the south and Liptov in the north) and the High and Western Tatras opposite.

The best views are from the highest peaks of Ďumbier and Chopok, as well as from Kráľova hoľa, Zadná hoľa, Chabence, Ďurková, Veľká Chochuľa, and many others.
 

Danger

Bears in the woods can be dangerous (but you'll only see them in rare cases), as can vipers basking on rocks. There's no danger of falling, as there are no exposed sections with safety features here.
 

Food

Hot snacks can be purchased at the Andrejcová and Ďurková mountain huts, and there are restaurants at the Gen. M. R. Štefánik and Pod Chopkom mountain huts and at the Čertovica saddle (you can also pay by card at the Kamenná chata pod Chopkom mountain hut and the motorway restaurant in Čertovica). Otherwise, you will need to rely on your own supplies (water can be replenished from springs).
 

Attractions

The entire route from Telgárt to the shelter below Kečka leads through the Low Tatras National Park (which is why camping is only allowed in specific places and walking outside the marked trails is prohibited) and is part of the red long-distance trail Cesta hrdinů SNP (Slovak National Uprising Trail). It can, of course, be completed in both directions.