A challenging hike across Planspitze Mountain in the Gesäuse National Park

Ascent to the Planspitze via the Wasserfallweg, Austria's oldest secured climbing route

Starting point

Parking lot at Kummerbrücke, about 6 km from Hieflau. Paid parking (€7/day in 2026; the payment machine accepts cards).
 

Description of the hike

I leave my car in the parking lot at Kummerbrücke (paid parking; 2026: €7 per day). Above Gesäusestrasse—the road between Hieflau and Admont—the nearly vertical cliffs of the Gesäuse National Park rise up. A marked trail known as the Wasserfallweg (Wasserfall = waterfall) starts right from the parking lot by the Kummerbrücke bridge. It is said to be the oldest secured trail in Austria, marked in 1891 by the Wiener Alpiner Gesellschaft. It is not a classic via ferrata, but a very steep trail with technical features (ropes, ladders) that covers an elevation gain of approximately 900 meters over a short distance.

From the parking lot, it’s still a few hundred meters straight ahead along a forest path beside the Enns River (Enže), then the trail turns perpendicular to a waterfall about fifty meters high. Below the waterfall, you cross the stream, and the trail then continues steeply upward beneath the cliff face along narrow traverses. There are safety features in several places—fixed handholds, ropes, metal steps, and ladders. The trail isn’t particularly exposed; you remain in the forest the whole time, but in a few spots there are deep views into the valley that can make your head spin. About halfway along the route, there’s a rest area with a commemorative plaque. From the bench here, you can admire the Grosser and Kleiner Buchstein mountains, as well as the Tieflimauer and Tamischbachturm on the other side of the valley. The most difficult section is just past the rest area: an almost vertical crack leading upward, ending in a narrow ladder. But there’s nothing to fear—the anchors are reliable, and in some places there are even anchors on both sides. A via ferrata set isn’t necessary, but if you want to be on the safe side, you should use one.

From the wooden statue of the Madonna, the trail straightens out and climbs only slightly to a fork in the trail. Go straight to the Hesshütte; to the right is a turnoff toward Planspitze. At this point, you’ve climbed about 900 meters in elevation—half of the entire route. If you head right toward Planspitze, the next hour is somewhat uneventful—forest, clearing, dwarf pine, meadow, dwarf pine. A 500-meter climb uphill, with no views to speak of, and the dull, forested ridge of Hochzinödl behind you. And then it hits you—you’re standing at 2,000 meters on the edge of Planspitze, looking straight down below you: a 1,500-meter drop into the valley, where a river flows, tiny cars drive along the road, and freight trains run on the tracks like in a model world. And above it all, a sea of mountains—the Ennstal Alps, behind them the Totes Gebirge, Pyhrgas, Grimming, Haller Mauern, the Hochschwab to the east, and the peak of the Lugauer peeking out behind the Hochzinödl. And above all, the highest mountain in the Ennstal—the Hochtor (2,369 m).

The forces of nature have shaped the north face of the Hochtor and the Planspitze into parallel ridges that run diagonally upward toward the blue sky—a magnificent sight. Finally, the summit of the Planspitze (2,114 m) is also visible. It seems within reach, but the trail still traverses across grass and small rocks, and there are additional secured sections (difficulty A/B). At the summit of the Planspitze, there are two summit crosses and an unobstructed view of the north face of the Hochtor and the Ödsteingruppe mountains beyond it. The descent route to the Hesshütte is also visible.

After a good rest, I set off downhill. The path looked easy from above, but it’s not quite that simple. Below the summit, there are still several secured and steep sections. After the turnoff to the Peternscharte saddle, the trail descends more gradually, but you’ll encounter slabs of limestone scree and mountain pine roots. It’s still about an hour’s walk to the Hesshütte. The Hesshütte serves classic mountain cuisine, and it’s possible to spend the night there. There’s a spring below the hut.

A trail leads from the cabin toward the village of Johnsbach. After a few hundred meters, however, I turn left and climb toward the Sulzkarhund trail (1,822 m). At the saddle, I take a break by a wooden cross and enjoy a beautiful view of the Sulzkaralm valley. In June, the valley is a lush green, with thousands of flowers in bloom and cows grazing—a true Alpine idyll. The descent into the valley is grassy and easygoing. Above the forest is a small alpine hut where you can grab a bite to eat and refill your water at the spring. From there, it’s about a 2-hour walk down to the valley along forest trails and beside a cascading stream. You’ll emerge onto the road; it’s about a 20-minute walk back to the parking lot, or you can hitch a ride—Austrians usually give mountain hikers a ride.
 

Difficulty

A challenging but beautiful trail in the Gesäuse National Park. Varied terrain—secured paths, forest trails, alpine meadows, and rocky sections. You can split the hike into two stages with an overnight stay at Hesshütte or in Johnsbach. The Wasserfallweg is marked as a black (most challenging) hiking trail. From the parking lot to the Hesshütte, expect more difficult sections where you’ll occasionally need to use your hands. Secured sections include fixed ropes, ladders, and steps. Beyond the Hesshütte, it’s a classic Alpine hike—meadows, alpine pastures, and forest roads.
 

Water availability

The Wasserfallweg follows the stream, then continues to Hesshütte (mountain hut + spring), Sulzkaralm (refreshments, springs), and then the stream.
 

Sleeping options

The Hesshütte cabin along the trail or in the valley.
 

Mountain peaks

The hike to Planspitze (2,114 m above sea level) offers views of the Ennstal Alps, the Totes Gebirge, the Gesäuse, the Hochschwab, and more.
 

Danger

The trail between Wasserfallweg and Hesshütte is marked as the most difficult hiking trail. However, it is well-traveled and the safety equipment is in very good condition. The trail is more suitable for experienced hikers.
 

Food

The Hesshütte offers takeout and hot meals.