A hike in the Gesäuse Mountains via Mount Lugauer

The Lugauer Trail in the Gesäuse National Park

Starting point

The village of Radmer an der Stube, parking lot below the pilgrimage church (Wallfahrtskirche).
 

Description of the hike

I park my car in Radmer an der Stube in the parking lot next to the pilgrimage church of St. Anthony of Padua (Wallfahrtskirche St. Antonius von Padua). The Habsburgermeile nature trail begins at the church, commemorating the visit of Austrian Emperor Franz Joseph and his wife Elisabeth (Sisi) to Radmer. After a few hundred meters, I turn left onto the marked hiking trail to Lugauer (black, highest difficulty level; 4.5 hours to Lugauer). The trail climbs through the forest to the Schoderkreuz Pass at about 1,700 m (approx. 2 hours). About halfway along the route is a meadow with a hunting cabin; from there, the path continues steeply upward to the edge of the forest. From the clearings, views occasionally open up of the Kaiserschild–Hochkogel massif above Eisenerz, or on the other side, of the Tamischbachturm mountain above Hieflau.

From the edge of the forest, a rocky trail leads directly beneath the massive face of the Lugauer Ostgipfel, the eastern peak. It can be slippery, so use trekking poles and step on solid rocks whenever possible. At the Schoderkreuz saddle, there is a signpost, and the trail to the Lugauer turns left. On the other side of the saddle, views of the mountains of the Gesäuse National Park come into view—the long, sweeping Hochzinödl and, beyond it, the highest peak, the Hochtor. You’ll walk along the contour line for a while, and then the climb to the summit begins. The trail winds in switchbacks among the rocks steeply toward the summit; occasionally you’ll need to use your hands, but it’s not exposed—just challenging. Just below the summit at Lugauerscharte, the trail splits—to the left toward the Lugauer Ostgipfel (2,206 m), to the right toward the Hauptgipfel (2,217 m, the main summit). It’s only a few dozen meters to the Ostgipfel. The summit is marked by a pile of rocks and a simple cross made of sticks. The view of the steep north face of the main summit is breathtaking.

To reach the main summit, you must rejoin the trail and descend a few more meters. Between the eastern and main summits is a more exposed section, secured by a fixed rope. However, this is not a via ferrata—just a few short secured sections. The trail winds around the ridge; sure-footedness is essential here. The main summit of the Lugauer (2,217 m), marked by a metal cross, is now close at hand. From the summit of the Lugauer, there is a panoramic view of the Gesäuse, the Eisenerz Alps, the Hochschwab, and the Seckau Tauern. Somewhere in the distance to the west, you can make out the Haller Mauern and the Totes Gebirge.

The descent from Lugauer initially follows the ridge and then crosses the Lugauerplan meadow to the Gespitzer Stein trail junction. From here, you can descend into the valley to the village of Radmer an der Hasel, or extend your hike by an hour to visit the Neuburgalm. The trail to the Neuburgalm climbs slightly through the forest at first, then descends through spring meadows—which resemble the Šumava marshes—to the Neuburgsattel pass. The Neuburgalm is a small, cozy alpine hut. Outside the wooden cabins are tables with checkered tablecloths and jugs adorned with wildflowers and rowan berries. They serve chilled drinks and simple snacks. You could sit here for hours, chatting with the friendly caretakers and listening to the tinkling of cowbells. From there, it’s about an hour’s descent into the valley to Radmer an der Hasel. A bus runs occasionally in the valley (postbus.at), or even passing locals might stop and ask if they can give you a ride somewhere. The return trip to Radmer an der Stube is about 5 km along a quiet road or parallel forest trails.
 

Difficulty

The most popular route to Lugauer—a one-way trail from Radmer an der Hasel across the Lugauerplan meadow—was described here a few years ago. This is an alternative: a loop trail that passes both peaks of Lugauer (Ost- and Hauptgipfel). The trail is marked as the most difficult hiking trail (black). It’s a bit more challenging, but there’s a secured section between the two peaks (it’s not a via ferrata). A pleasant finish at the cozy Neuburgalm. The route is relatively long and involves a significant elevation gain.
 

Water availability

Bring your own water; snacks are available at Neuburgalm or at the store and restaurant in Radmer.
 

Sleeping options

There is no hiking lodge in the valley along the trail.
 

Mountain peaks

Hike to the Lugauer Ost+Hauptgipfel, with views of the Gesäuse, the mountains around Eisenerz, the Seckau Tauern, the Ennstal, and more.
 

Danger

A more exposed but secured section between the eastern and main peaks. Sure-footedness is essential; this section may pose problems for those who suffer from vertigo. Occasionally, you’ll need to use your hands as well.

 

Food

Bring your own food; snacks are available at Neuburgalm or at the inn and store in Radmer.
 

Attractions

The name “Lugauer” likely derives from the German words “lugen” and ‘auer’ (herunter schauen), which in the Styrian dialect means “to look down.” Viewed from the north, Lugauer resembles a perfect peak, a pyramid, which has earned it the nickname “the Swiss Matterhorn.”