Ascent to Šiprúň in the Great Fatra Mountains with a visit to Vlkolínec

Hike from Ružomberok across the northern part of Veľká Fatra

Starting point

I start the trek in Ružomberok in the local district of Biely Potok, where I travel by bus, or it can be started from the other side from the local district of Černová.
 

Description of the hike

1. day

I get off the bus around nine o'clock in the local district of Biely Potok, from where I plan to set off via the village of Vlkolínec to Mount Šiprúň, spend the night in one of the shelters, and catch the train in Ružomberok tomorrow morning. I buy a few supplies for the trip at the local COOP store and then head for Vlkolínec along the yellow trail.

First, I have to climb a fairly steep slope aptly named Príkro, but after less than two kilometers, I arrive on an asphalt road in a foothill village at the southern foot of Sidorovo Hill. Vlkolínec has been declared a folk architecture heritage site and is listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site for its uniqueness.

I walk among fifty well-preserved log houses, some of which are still inhabited, and take a break at a local farm with free-roaming goats, where I refresh myself with a radler. From Vlkolínec, I continue climbing along the yellow trail to the saddle below Sidorov to Vrchlúky, from where there is a beautiful view of the striking rocky massif of Halina.

I connect to the green trail here and continue climbing through the Suché Hrabovo valley along an asphalt road through the forest. At the saddle below Vtáčnik, the road turns into a forest path, which basically follows the cycle path all the way to the Vyšné Šiprúnské saddle, where I finally get a view of the Šiprúň massif.

While I don't meet any hikers, I do come across a few cyclists, and we often strike up conversations about where we are headed. For a moment, the green trail deviates from the cycle path into the forest, where I try not to let my fear of bears get the better of me, but I breathe a sigh of relief as soon as I emerge from the forest onto a meadow.

And I don't mind at all that I have to avoid the ubiquitous cow dung. Around two in the afternoon, I arrive at a cozy place below the Vyšný Šiprúnský saddle, where I originally wanted to spend the night. However, as it is still too early to spend the rest of the day alone in the woods, I decide to continue on and look at the maps on my phone to find another place to spend the night.

I hide my backpack in the saddle and take a short hike up the twin peak of Šiprúň, 1,461 meters above sea level. From one of its peaks, I have a view of Ružomberok and the Choč Mountains, and from the other, a view of the Low Tatras. While on the way up, I push my way through a herd of cows, but on the way down, I decide to go around them. Finally, I continue along a slightly descending ridge and follow the red trail for another 7 kilometers or so to the Kalisko saddle, where I turn onto a grassy slope.

I find a watering hole where I can get some water, and after another turn in the forest, I finally come across a lonely shelter (útulňa pod Vtáčnikom), where I settle down.
 

2. day

In the morning, I wake up to complete silence, quickly pack my backpack, and set off. Through the morning fog, I first make my way through a dew-covered meadow, but at Tlstá hora, the forest trail turns into a paved road, along which I descend steadily through the forest to the western suburb of Ružomberok called Černová.

Then I just continue through the town along the Váh River to the center, and after 10 kilometers, I arrive at the train station. The entire route from Biely Potok to the center of Ružomberok is about 28 kilometers long, so it can easily be completed in a single day.
 

Difficulty

The route mostly follows forest roads and well-trodden paths through meadows, with some sections (mainly at the beginning) on asphalt roads. The climb is gradual (with the exception of a steeper but short climb from Biely Potok to Vlkolínec), and from Vlkolínec to Šiprúň it follows a cycle path. The trek can be completed in a single day.
 

Water availability

Water can be purchased at the shop in Biely Potok and at restaurants in Vlkolínec, and then collected from natural springs in Vrchlúky, below Vtáčnik, at the shelter below Vyšné Šiprúnské sedlo, in the Kalisko saddle, or at the Budkovice spring.
 

Sleeping options

I spent the night in Útulňa pod Vtáčnikom – a simple, freely accessible cabin for about 8 people, without a caretaker, lockable, next to a fireplace, with the nearest water source in a meadow below the Kalisko saddle. Alternatively, you can spend the night halfway there in a similar shelter below the Vyšný Šiprúnsky saddle or further on in three different shelters below Tlstá hora.
 

Mountain peaks

I climbed Šiprúň (1,461 m above sea level), from whose two peaks you can see Ružomberok, the Choč Mountains, and the Low Tatras. During the trip, I also crossed the inconspicuous peak of Vtáčnik (1,090 m), and alternatively, you can also make a short detour to Malinné (1,209 m).
 

Danger

The route has no dangerous sections or exposed areas. The only thing to watch out for is bears.
 

Food

Food can be purchased at the start of the route (Biely Potok, Ružomberok) or along the way at a restaurant in Vlkolínec; there are no other options on the ridge.
 

Attractions

Vlkolínec – a heritage reserve of folk architecture, listed on the UNESCO World Heritage List.