Crossing the Lefka Ori Mountains on the island of Crete

Trek across Psiloritis, the highest mountain of Crete

Starting point

The starting point for the day trek is from the car park on the north side of Lakkos Mygerou, or a longer route from the east of Analipsi church.
 

Description of the hike

The highest mountain of Crete has an impressive height of 2,456 m, but the climb is not technically demanding. The easiest option is from the parking lot of the Lakkos Mygerou shelter on the north side of the mountain at about 1600 m. From there, a steep but easy trail to the summit with an elevation gain of about 800 m follows the mountain path. Other options are ascents from the SW or SE, which follow the E4 long-distance route (more in the Interesting Facts). If you don't take the E4, you can either drive to the free car parks at the trailheads or arrange a lift in the village for a few euros.

We start the route from Nida plain, parking about 20 km south of Anogia village. The car park is situated next to an unfinished tourist centre, where a tavern used to operate, but is now completely abandoned. Above the car park is a tourist attraction - the Idaean Cave, where the god Zeus is said to have hidden from his cruel father Kronos. From the Analipsi church, the trail climbs up a steep rocky traverse to the Akolita saddle (about 2 hours away). The green plain of Nida is replaced by the rocky valley of the White Mountains. More goats than people walk the trail, branching off into deceptive paths. There are signs, though - yellow and black E4, or spray-painted red dots.

From the Akolita saddle at about 1900 m, you can see the continuation of the path through the valley between the two-thousanders. Even at the beginning of summer there are snow fields. After a short descent, there is a long, gradual climb up to the Sele saddle (approx. 2200 m). From here you can see the Psiloritis peak and also the descent to the parking lot on the north side. The final part corresponds to the altitude - mostly on rocks and rubble, but nothing difficult. It takes about an hour to reach the summit. At the top of Psiloritis, here called Timios Stavros (Holy Cross), there is a stone chapel with a bell and a wooden cross. If the weather is good, you have a beautiful circular view and Crete in the palm of your hand.

The descent down the north side is steeper, but the path is more walked, sometimes even piled with stones into a mountain path. Down to the car park at 1600m is about a 2 hour hike. If you decide to take the circular trek back to Nida Plain, you have to cover about 2 km of open terrain (goat trails) from the parking lot, then wider trails (service gravel roads for the sheep sheds and transmitter) lead back, about 6 km.
 

Difficulty

Technically easy, but long trek. Rocky surface, thorny vegetation.
 

Water availability

Water with you, there is no possibility to refill on the route.
 

Sleeping options

There is no lodge on the route, there is plenty of accommodation in the surrounding villages.
 

Mountain peaks

The ascent to the highest peak of Crete, Psiloritis 2 456 m above sea level, offers views of the Lefka Ori mountains and a large part of the island of Crete.
 

Danger

The route is not dangerous, but the terrain is rocky, there are plants with thorns, long pants will prevent scratching.
 

Food

Food to take with you, there is no possibility of refreshments on the route, there are many taverns, cafes or grocery stores in the villages.
 

Attractions

Long distance route E4 in Crete

The E4 runs from west to east through Crete for about 500 km. According to the guidebooks, the whole thing can be walked in about a month. At several points it branches off into a more difficult mountain stage and a less difficult inland or coastal stage. The trail is varied, running on different types of paths, from asphalt, to gravel paths used mainly by sheep farmers riding in pickup trucks, to mountain goat trails. It is marked by yellow and black arrows and poles with a square E4 marker.

However, the signage is not very reliable; in Crete, people like to shoot at the signs; in the mountainous areas, the trails are trampled by herds of goats and sheep, and in some places the official signage is replaced by the occasional red dot. Signposts and inscriptions are mostly bilingual - in Greek alphabet and English (maps.cz shows both). The route passes through villages and mountainous areas of the Lefka Ori (White Mountains), in the upper parts of the mountains it traverses rocky terrain above 2000 m. It passes over three attractive two-thousanders of Crete - Pachnes 2453 m from the west, the highest Psiloritis (Mt. Ida) 2456 m and Spathi 2 148 m in the east above the plain of Lasithi.

In the lower parts there is no problem with overnight stays in places marked for camping or under roof in villages. There is only one mountain hut, Kallergi Refugio, about an hour's drive from the entrance to Samaria Gorge, but don't expect much comfort. Food on the road is not a problem, it can be bought in one of the many shops or tavernas in the villages, but water is worse. Crete is an arid subtropical island and springs can be dry or just in the form of cattle troughs. Refill water whenever you can, or ask for it (water is Greek for "nero").

If you opt for the mountain option, you need to allow for high elevation, rocky and thorny terrain, and probably an overnight stay along the way (the flats for camping at the top are usually without water). Beware of strong winds and weather changes, snow may remain in the highest parts even in early summer. In mountainous areas there is not always a signal, but maps.cz in the offline version worked reliably. You can easily communicate with locals using English, German or French. Most people in Crete live off tourism, so they know at least a few words and will often just chat with you and make sure you have water, food and everything you need.