Five-day crossing of the Serra de Tramuntana in Mallorca

Trek along the GR 221 route in the Serra de Tramuntana mountains

Starting point

The entire trail through the Serra de Tramuntana mountains, marked GR 221, is officially divided into 8 stages, and for time reasons we only join in the middle of the third stage. We start the trek in the village of Valldemossa, where we will be conveniently transported by bus 203 from Palma.
 

Description of the hike

1. day

Half an hour later, we take a bus from Palma to the pretty village of Valldemossa, where we meet many tourists and hikers who are passing through or just starting their pilgrimage like us. Despite the large number of tourists, Valldemossa with its old stone streets with picturesque house fronts is a pleasant village in the mountains, dominated by the Carthusian monastery of Real Cartuja. We'll at least take a stroll through the small adjacent monastery garden and from there head to a small lookout point above the town at the Molí de la Beata windmill.

This connects us directly to the GR 221 trail, which passes through the centre of the village and along its outskirts with its splendid villas, and then leads us into the forest and begins a slow climb up the hills. Along the way we cross a lot of fallen trees from a recent storm, and as we gain altitude we also get into the fog. In fact, on the way to the next mountain village, Deià, we have to climb to over 900m above sea level, where the trail takes us to the two mountain peaks of Puig Gros (938m) and Es Caragolí (944m), before descending again. The ridge route between the two peaks is supposed to offer nice views of the surrounding area, but unfortunately due to the fog we can only see a few metres ahead.

Fortunately, as we descended, the fog gradually cleared and we could finally enjoy our first beautiful view of the sea, the rocky coastline and the small peninsula of Punta de Sa Foradada. On two occasions we go slightly off the trail and it takes a while to find the right path again. With the help of the offline map.cz app, however, it's no problem to find your way. In fact, this stage does not yet have official signage and there are still no direction signs for GR 221. In one tricky section, we also have to overcome a slightly dangerous rock overhang, where we have to proceed slowly and carefully with our backpacks. The rest of the descent, however, is on a paved path through the forest, although hiking poles would certainly be useful here. After five o'clock we arrive at the village of Deià and our hostel Can Boi.
 

2. day

From the Can Boi hut we pass through the whole village of Deià and after it we descend down a stone path, while enjoying the views of the opposite green hills with small settlements and farmer's fields. The trail then turns right to the northeast, where it begins to climb gently, continuing through picturesque olive groves and orange groves, and this time we can indulge in the sea views again. At one of the viewpoints in front of the village of Son Coll, we are tempted by the offer of fresh juice, squeezed from oranges by a local farmer for the standard price of €3, and while we sip it we enjoy the view of the picturesque bay of Cala Deià with its cliff.

After a pleasant break, we continue on under the shade of the trees to the crossroads at the Capella de Castelló church, where the trail splits. While one route leads to the town of Sóller, the other turns north to the Muleta hut. Again, thanks to the viewpoint and the cosy atmosphere of the outdoor café, we are tempted to take a short break and enjoy a cup of coffee. From here, we continue just north to Muleta Cottage, which stands right above the ocean on the rocky cliff of Cap Cros next to the lighthouse of the same name. As we arrive here just an hour after noon, we have the whole afternoon to explore the nearby port town of Port de Sóller, located in a small almost circular bay under the mountains, which we have an amazing view of from the cliff.
 

3. day

From the Muleta hut we head towards the town of Sóller. Instead of the asphalt path around the water, we choose a slightly longer official path through the forest and in the shade, but soon the houses of this town, nestled in a valley of orange and lemon groves between the mountains and the sea, are peeking out at us. In the town itself, the Plaça de la Constitució is worth a look, surrounded by tapas bars and dominated by the 13th-century church of Sant Bartomeu.

After lunch we continue from here towards Biniaraix on the very outskirts of the town, where we finally exchange the asphalt for a typical stony path through the forest. The first kilometres of the trail pass through the beautiful Barranc Gorge, past terraces covered with citrus trees and old olive groves. We then have an eight-kilometre climb up a rocky path of almost 1,000 metres to the Col de l'Ofre (885 metres), with views of the ocean and the town of Sóller in the valley below, while we are surrounded on two sides by the thousand-foot peaks of the Tramuntana mountain range.

From the saddle, we are rewarded with a view of the Embassament de Cúber mountain dam in the distance. After about an hour's ride through the forest and past numerous herds of sheep and goats, we finally reach the lake where we plan to spend the night, as the nearest hut, Tossal Verds, has been occupied for a long time. Our first choice is a small shelter with a veranda, Refugio de Cúber, right at the beginning of the lake, but unfortunately we find it locked and after a while the locals throw us out. We therefore continue on to the other end of the lake where there is a large picnic spot called Font des Noguer with many benches and tables, stone fireplaces, toilets and a drinking fountain. We therefore decide to spend the night here on one of the benches, even though we are not at all equipped for sleeping outside (we have only a light sleeping bag for sleeping in the huts). Unfortunately, we find that the biting cold (5 degrees Celsius at night) and the uncomfortable bench are not compatible with a restful sleep.
 

4. day

Two hours after midnight, after failing to sleep at all because of the cold and discomfort, we decide to try to go on through the night. But first, still without our backpacks, we take a warming one-hour walk around Lake Cúber. The full moon shines beautifully on our path, also illuminating the surface of the lake and the surrounding rocks, so we can easily see the path even without light. At the campsite we pack up, put on our headlamps and head on with our packs.

From the Font des Noguer campsite, follow the path along the water channel that ingeniously connects the two reservoirs of Cúber and Gorg Blau. After about two kilometres, we suddenly have a breathtaking view of the Gorg Blau from above. From here, however, the trail continues through the dark forest and after another two kilometres, at the turn-off to Tossal Verds and the Font des Prat, it begins to climb upwards to the summit of Puig de Massanella (1364 m).

As dawn breaks, despite our fatigue, we decide to take a detour and climb this peak. We hide our backpacks in the bushes near the turn-off and tread lightly, first uphill on the stony path and then climb with the help of our hands on the rock massif to the plateau with large boulders, over which we still have to jump. By this time, the morning sun is already rising from behind the sea surface and beautifully illuminating the surrounding hills. From the very top, we have a 360-degree panoramic view of the entire island to all its coastlines.

When we climb down the rock, we still have several kilometres of descent to the Son Amer hut, and at the Coll des Prat saddle we unknowingly leave the GR 221 trail and find ourselves on another trail (camí de ses cases de neu). Since it leads to the same destination, we don't go back, but at the same time we grumble a bit about the terrain, which is just a lot of big boulders, wondering if we'll twist an ankle. At noon we finally arrive at the Son Amer hut, where we immediately check in and rest in bed for a while.

On Good Friday afternoon we go to the pilgrimage site of Lluc, a kilometre away, where there is a monastery dedicated to the Virgin Mary. In the beautifully landscaped grounds in front of the monastery, we finally sit down for lunch at a tapas bar, where I sample the local speciality Pa Amb Oli con sobrasada, bread spread with olive oil and sausage made from minced pork. Dinner is then enjoyed on the terrace of our cottage with its garden, which has a great view of Lluc and the surrounding hills.
 

5. day

The final leg to Pollença awaits us. After a short climb, ending with a view of Lluc, the trail then just steadily descends and the route in the shade of the oak trees in the lee of the Puig Tomir mountain becomes a bit duller compared to the previous days. After 10 kilometres we join the asphalt road, which passes through the valley almost on the flat past various small settlements and villas with huge gardens with olive trees and other trees. The tarmac road gradually leads to the town of Pollença, which is known as the cultural capital of the north, as reflected in the number of tourists present.

The most important attraction in the city is the Stations of the Cross with 365 steps leading to the Chapel of el Calvari. But instead, during lunch, we decide to finish with a climb up the nearby Puig de Maria, which rises directly above the town at 330 metres above sea level. The road to almost the bottom of the hill is on a tarmac path, which gradually opens up to a fine view of the town, and at the very top is the eponymous stone shrine occupied by the local goats. However, the entrance to its bowels is locked and there is no advertised café, only the local youth having a barbecue picnic. To get a better view, which is what we are after above all, we have to walk a few dozen metres through the trees before a beautiful panoramic view opens up of the coastline enclosed by two peninsulas, the bay of Pollença and also the outline of the neighbouring island of Menorca. After descending down, we board the bus to be taken to the nearby port town of Port de Pollença, which we have also viewed from the top and where we have booked a hotel for our last night.
 

Difficulty

The GR 221 trail in the beautiful Sierra de Tramuntana is one of the less demanding long-distance routes. It passes through a wonderfully varied natural and cultural landscape, mostly on rocky surfaces, less often on forest paths. Here and there I was bothered by the number of large boulders that occur on some parts of the trail, but on a route nicknamed the "dry stone trail" you have to expect it. On the other hand, much of it is nicely groomed, which makes it easier to climb the hills - especially on the steep climb up the coll de l'Ofre.
 

Water availability

I wouldn't rely too much on water from natural sources along the way (especially in the summer months), so I always recommend buying bottled water in villages and towns along the way. The only well water I've tapped was in Font des Noguer at Lake Cúber.
 

Sleeping options

Since there are mountain huts along the GR 221 route and I don't want to pay extra for checked luggage and carry a tent and a mattress, I decide to cross lightly and stay overnight in local mountain huts (refugi), for which I only need to bring a light sleeping bag. However, the huts need to be booked and paid for in advance as they are usually fully booked in high season. I therefore book the huts Can Boi in Deia, Refugi de Muleta near Port de Sóller and Son Amer in Lluc (each costs €14, with the option to pay extra for half board). The originally planned Tossal Verds hut for the third night was unfortunately already booked two months in advance, but the alternative is to stay at Font des Noguer on Lake Cúber.
Sleeping outdoors is tolerated on the GR 221 trail, and with a three-season sleeping bag and a crash mattress, a hiker can certainly get by.
 

Mountain peaks

Climb to Puig de Massanella (1364 m), the third highest peak of the island, which offers a 360-degree panoramic view of the entire island to all its shores. We can see both the capital Palma on the south of the island and the tip of the Formentor Peninsula on the other side. To the west, across the valley, we can also see the highest mountain of the island and of the entire Balearic archipelago, Puig Major, which is still 100 metres higher, but is used for military purposes and is inaccessible to tourists.
 

Danger

At the time of our visit, the stage between Valldemossa and Deia did not have official signs and the signposts for GR 221 were still missing. At the beginning of the descent towards Deia, one can easily get lost on the rocks and in one tortuous section one has to cross a slightly dangerous unprotected rock overhang.
 

Food

Food can be bought both in the mountain huts and in the villages and towns along the way (Valldemossa, Deia, Sóller, Lluc). At Lake Cúber there is a picnic spot, Font des Noguer, where you can build a fire and barbecue.
 

Attractions

The Serra de Tramuntana has become a UNESCO World Heritage Site thanks to its beautiful landscape, sensitively combining beautiful nature with the creations of human activity.

The pilgrimage site of Lluc, where there is a monastery dedicated to the Virgin Mary, is important. There is a statue of the Black Madonna (La Moraneta), whose appearance is shrouded in myth and legend.

The village of Deia, with its unique location between the ocean and the mountains, has always attracted many celebrities and artists, so there are many art galleries and good restaurants.

The Carthusian monastery of Real Cartuja in the village of Valldemossa has successively served as a royal residence, a retreat for monks and, after them, the composer Frédéric Chopin stayed here.