A challenging trek in the Totoes Gebirge mountains with an ascent to Zwölferkogel

Totes Gebirge from the north with ascent to Zwölferkogel

Starting point

Almsee, paid parking (2025: 5€/day). License plate recognition cameras. No camping allowed. Unpaid smaller car parks are on the road around the Almsee, but you have to take the tarmac back.
 

Description of the hike

In the central part of the Totes Gebirge, the mountain slopes descend steeply to Lake Almsee and the Almtal valley. From the town of Grünau im Almtal, you can see a group of mountains called the Almtaler Sonnenuhr – the Almtal sundial. The mountains are named according to when the sun is above them – from sunrise Neunerkogel (9), Zehnerkogel (10), Elferkogel (11), Zwölferkogel (12) and Einserkogel (1). The mountain trek that crosses them has the same name (more in Interesting Facts). There is a large paid parking lot at Lake Almsee. Camping is not allowed here, but you can leave your car here for up to a week.

The hiking trail starts right at the parking lot and continues along a wider forest road. After less than an hour, it branches off to the right to Grießkarsteig and to the left to Sepp-Huber Steig. Grießkarsteig climbs in serpentines to the Grießkar mountain basin between the peaks of Elferkogel and Zwölferkogel. Elferkogel on the left is monumental, with distinctive folds stretching horizontally along its entire length. In contrast, the walls of Zwölferkogel on the right descend in long, smooth slabs furrowed with karst grooves. A beautiful mountain landscape, huge limestone rocks bleached by the sun and frost, scree, a maze among the rocks.

Exposed areas are secured with metal cables at the so-called Urbann Band, where there is also a shorter ladder. It takes about two hours of steep climbing to reach Grießkarscharte. Behind Urbann Band, at about 1,900 m, a steep trail branches off to Elferkogel (Mapy.cz offline version). There are no markings here, but the safest route seemed to be directly along the wall. Be careful, the smooth limestone slab is slippery, and the gravel slips under your feet. A little higher up, there is a grassy strip and an occasional noticeable path. Not many people come here, and you may even encounter chamois. It is about 300 meters to the summit of Zwölferkogel (2102 m). About 200 meters beyond the main peak, across the meadows, is the second, panoramic peak of Zwölferkogel Nordgipfel (2059 m) with a beautiful cross and a view of Almsee. In good weather, you can see the entire Totes Gebirge with the highest peak, Grosser Priel, Dachstein to the south, Traunstein and Höllengebirge to the west.

I descended the same route, but the Austrians who had been at the summit before me were returning via the neighboring peak of Großer Rabenstein, and I met them again at the Eiskapelle ice cave. Snow remains in the cave until summer, and there is even a small improvised altar made of stones. Behind Eiskapelle, the path straightens and descends into a green valley below the Wildgößl and Salzofen mountains. The trail leads through blooming alpine meadows, and there are springs below the Salzofen mountain where you can refill your water. Here you will meet more people, hikers heading for the highest peak, Großer Priel, and staying overnight at the Pühringer or Welser Hütte huts, as well as day hikers coming from Grundlsee in the south. At the wooden huts of Elmgrube, the route splits and continues to the nearby Elmsee lake and the Pühringer Hütte hut.

From there, a path leads under the steep walls of Elmu towards the dominant Rotgschirr peak. The turnoff back to Röll is well marked with signs on large rocks. After about half an hour of winding through limestone boulders, the path descends from the Rölsattel saddle (1,755 m). Sepp Huber Steig is slightly less steep than Grießkar, but there are more safety features and ladders, especially over wet areas where water flows. The path is rocky, so trekking poles will help. Allow about 2 hours to descend to the crossroads and then another half hour to Almsee. Almsee is a local attraction, and you will meet many people here, including families with children on the nature trail. You can walk around the lake, and there are small beaches for swimming on the eastern shore. There is a restaurant and refreshments. Swimming in the crystal-clear water of Almsee is freezing, but the view of the mountain peaks from the lake is worth it.
 

Difficulty

A beautiful route in the central part of the Totes Gebirge. The ascent and descent through the Grießkar and Röll mountain basins - a steep 1000 metres. Secured sections, ladders. On the plateau of the Totes Gebirge, a classic alpine walk. The turn-off to Zwölferkogel is unmarked, expect about 1.5 hours extra.
 

Water availability

Streams and springs at Almsee, up below the Salzofen mountain. Refreshments available at the Pühringer Hütte.
 

Sleeping options

There is one hut on the route – Pühringer Hütte. It tends to be full during the season, so book in advance. In the past, camping was allowed on a flat area above the hut, but I don't know if this is still the case. There is plenty of accommodation in the valley – campsites, guesthouses, hotels.
 

Mountain peaks

Climb to the summit of Zwölferkogel. Summit collectors can take the interesting Almtaler Sonnenuhr route. Views of Totes Gebirge, Dachstein, Traunstein, Kasberg.
 

Danger

There are secured sections on the exit routes. The route to Zwölferkogel is unmarked and unclear, crossing scree and slabs.
 

Food

Refreshments available at Pühringer Hütte, or bring your own.
 

Attractions

Almtaler Sonnenuhr

The Almtaler Sonnenuhr (Almtal Sun Dial) route starts at Almsee and goes through Sepp-Huber Steig. S-H Steig is a challenging hiking trail with several ladders and fixed ropes for safety, but it's not a via ferrata. It's not great when it's wet or icy, as water runs down the rocks. According to descriptions on Austrian websites, the turnoff to Neunerkogel is at about 1600 m (unmarked). The route between Neuner and Elferkogel is not marked, only stone cairns are found in some places. You walk intuitively towards the peaks, over scree and dwarf pine. Occasionally, it is necessary to climb over small rocks (easy climbing without safety equipment). There are small wooden crosses on the peaks, and in some places summit books. From Elferkogel, descend to the Grießkarscharte saddle. At about the level of Eiskapelle (ice caves), the route branches off to Zwölferkogel. Again, it is unmarked, with rocks and sharp scree everywhere, indistinguishable from the cairns. The route goes over the secondary peak of Großer Rabenstein. Zwölferkogel has two peaks, with a cross on the lower northern peak offering a beautiful view of the Almtal valley and Lake Almsee. The offline version of Mapy.cz also shows a steep route that branches off at the end of Urbann Band (ladder and secured section in the Grießkar cirque).

The descent from Grießkarsteig is very steep, and there are ladders and safety equipment here too. The route is demanding in terms of length and elevation (over 20 km, 1,800 meters of elevation gain). Allow at least 11 hours, but it may take longer if you have to search for the route. Enthusiasts walk so that they are always at the peaks when the sun is above them. There was also a funny comment on one website – if you want to say goodbye to your worn-out shoes with dignity, this route is suitable for that – sturdy footwear is a must. Detailed description in German and photo documentation, for example:
https://www.wizis-und-brandis-bergwelt.com