A trip to explore the natural and cultural landmarks of the Doupov Mountains

A trip to Valeč Castle and the Doupov Mountains

Starting point

Valeč, the parking lot by the castle, or on the square.
 

Description of the hike

Valeč is easily accessible from the Karlovy Vary road, about 5 km past Lubenec. Even from a distance, you can see Valeč State Castle and the complex of red-and-white Baroque buildings. In addition to the castle, there are two large churches—the Church of the Holy Trinity and the Church of the Nativity of St. John the Baptist—as well as old half-timbered and town houses on the square and the Stations of the Cross with a Calvary. From the parking lot on the square, I head up toward the castle. The castle park is open to the public. Guidebooks describe it as a beautiful example of landscape urbanism—buildings were integrated into the natural terrain, complementing the surroundings and creating a fashionable Italian-style park in the 18th century.

Behind the castle gate, a fountain gurgles, surrounded by statues by Matyáš Braun inspired by Greek mythology. This is the second-largest collection of Braun’s works in Bohemia, second only to the Kuks Hospital complex in eastern Bohemia. A short distance away, on the hillside, are the terraced arcades of the Teatron—replicas of an ancient theater. Behind the fence, yellow illusionary gates with stucco decorations gleam in the sun. Along the road to Lubenec, small white chapels marking the Stations of the Cross are scattered, leading from the hilltop with the Church of the Holy Trinity and the plague column all the way to the Baroque Calvary on the opposite hillside.

Z města vede zelená značka na vrch Orlík se skalní vyhlídkou. Orlík byl dřív holý a skalky byly dobře vidět, jak je znát z dobové pohlednice na infotabuli, dnes už je ale kopec z valné většiny zarostlý. Po polních cestách obrostlých trnkovým loubím se dostanu na další vrch s rozhlednou Vochlice. Podobu rozhledně dal městský znak nedalekého Lubence se dvěma červenými věžemi. Na stavbu byl použit i místní cihlově červený kámen. Rudozem, na které se daří žateckému chmelu, je i pod kopcem na cestě do Mlýnců. Mezi stromy tu svítí zářivě žlutě a červeně obnovený zámek. V soukromém vlastnictví, focení zakázáno.

The yellow trail continues through overgrown orchards and an oak forest along Skytalský and Kružínský Hills. There’s a wide view of the rolling countryside, where fields give way to meadows and patches of woodland. There are plenty of roe deer everywhere; every now and then one darts out of the undergrowth. Near Vrbičky, I got a little lost near a former kaolin quarry. The quarry is privately owned and fenced off. I walked along the fence, hoping for a view of the blue surface of the lake. Where the fence ended, I followed a narrow path that actually led me above the lake, but a little further on I was already pushing through the brush and then ran into the fence again. The meadows and pastures around the former fortress and Lina farmstead are part of the Jalovcová Stráň nad Vrbičkou natural monument. The slopes here are covered with thermophilic vegetation and juniper bushes.

Near the ruins of Lina Fortress are two lovely ponds with reeds. From Lina, the path continues across the meadows below Šibeniční Hill. At the edge of the forest stands a centuries-old oak tree. It was the tree that marked the boundary of the estate. The oak is linked to a legend about the betrothed couple Johann and Veronica. Johann was sentenced to death for poaching on the lord’s lands and, before his execution, wanted to plant two oak trees in memory of his love, so that they would touch forever. But the authorities would not allow even that, and so the Johann and Veronika oaks stood 50 meters apart. The Na Spravedlnosti trail climbs up to Šibeniční Hill. From there, there are nice views of Valeč in places. Back to Valeč along the road to the square below the castle.

On the way to Prague, make a quick stop in Kryry, about 20 km away. On the hill above Kryry stands one of our most beautiful observation towers—Schillerova. This brick structure with white accents offers a panoramic view of the surrounding area and the Doupov Mountains.
 

Difficulty

A route through the rolling landscape of the Doupov Mountains, featuring natural and cultural landmarks—Valeč Castle and Park, the Vochlice Lookout Tower, and the Jalovcové stráně Natural Monument.
 

Water availability

Refreshments are available at the start and end of the hike in Valč.
 

Sleeping options

The location is just a short drive from Karlovy Vary; there are plenty of places to visit within driving distance.
 

Mountain peaks

The route passes through Šibeniční vrch, the Orlík lookout point, and the Vochlice observation tower. The views are mainly of the Doupov Mountains.
 

Danger

The route is not dangerous; it mostly follows hiking trails or forest and dirt roads.
 

Food

Refreshments are available in Valč.
 

Attractions

Valeč Castle. The first records of the castle date back to the 14th century. The castle has been rebuilt several times; its current appearance dates from the early 18th century. The castle park was once one of the most beautiful Baroque gardens in Bohemia. In keeping with Italian fashion, landscape features such as a Teatron (an ancient theater), a gazebo, and illusory gates were built there. The sculptures by Matyáš Braun, who worked here on the recommendation of the owner of Kuks in eastern Bohemia, are particularly impressive. His sculptures around the fountain are inspired by Greek mythology. The last noble family was of German origin; the castle was nationalized under the Beneš Decrees and later served as a sanatorium and children’s home. Tours of the castle are subject to a fee but are self-guided; tour materials are available at the information center. The castle also offers a spectacularly lit and audio-guided tour of the lapidarium featuring original sculptures by Braun and an exhibition of medieval frescoes rescued from the church in Doupov.
For more information, including photos, visit www.kudyznudy.cz or Wikipedia.